You're looking at the only 3D Printable sunroof delete for the SC300/400. Printed in 10 pieces and held together with small pegs to help with alignement. The pieces should fit on most printers with a bed larger than 230mm and Height of 240mm. Once printed and assembled it bolts right onto the roof with existing bolts and nuts. Assembly and finishing is obviously required.
Recommended Print Settings:
Filament - PETG, ASA, PET-CF, PAHT-CF, PETG-CF, anything but PLA. Think temp resistantLayer Height - Depends how long you wanna wait, doesn't matter really since it will be sanded and smoothed
Walls - 8 or more with 0.4mm nozzle (3-4mm minimum wall thickness)
Infill - 5% Gyroid (infill doesn't add strength, can do 0% even) it's just to hold the top layers up
Top/Bottom Layers - 3-4mm minimum thickness
Installation Instructions:
Use superglue to glue the pegs into the printed pieces. Do not glue the pieces together yet, only the pegs. Obviously don't glue pegs on adjacent pieces otherwise you won't be able to put it together. It is recommended to glue the pieces together while installed on the car. Bolt the corners of the assembly on to the car carefully, it's pretty fragile right now. Then tape or wedge the center of the piece to the roof so it doesn't sag. Once you're happy with the fitment it's time to glue it together. Cover your entire interior with plastic so epoxy drips don't ruin it. There are small gaps between the pieces that thin epoxy can be injected into. Once the pieces are glued together another thin layer of epoxy and woven fiberglass (or carbon fiber) is recommended on top. This can be done on the car or off the car. If doing it on the car tape off the metal areas of the car with release tape, or packing tape so excess epoxy doesn't stick the entire assembly to the roof. Once the top layer is cured, remove entire piece, flip it over and coat the entire bottom with thin epoxy to fill gaps and smooth out the entire piece. Sand, Paint, Clear Coat, reinstall in car. There is a small gap between the sunroof delete and original roof to add your choice of sealant like silicone, polyurethane, panel bond (for a really permanent install) or RTV. If done correctly entire assembly should be completely waterproof. You can skip all the smoothing steps and just lay fiberglass straight onto the piece while on the car and close the gap that way if you wish to do a poor man's slicktop conversion. A lot more body work will be needed, but that is an option.
Disclaimers:
If you don't use a layer of fiberglass on top and live in a hot climate, high temp resistant filament like PET-CF is recommended, but very expensive as you'll need almost 2kg. The fiberglass is extremely necessary if using PETG, or ASA. You might get lucky and it won't melt, but the chances are slim. You could try printing the pieces almost solid with 10 or more walls, but i think it's just cheaper and lighter to use a layer of fiberglass.
Secondary Products to use:
Epoxy - https://compositeenvisions.com/product/thin-epoxy-resin/
Fast Hardener - https://compositeenvisions.com/product/41-epoxy-hardener-fast-cure-1162/
Fiberglass - https://compositeenvisions.com/product/fiberglass-e-glass-plain-weave-50-127cm-9-41oz-319gsm-style-7500-504-volan-chrome-finish/
Carbon Fiber - https://compositeenvisions.com/product/carbon-fiber-fabric-2x2-twill-3k-50-127cm-6oz-203gsm-hexcel-as4/
Release Tape - https://compositeenvisions.com/product/airtech-flashbreaker-1-tape/
License:
Attribution-Noncommerical-NoDerivs.
This file is for personal use only. You can not sell the file or the printed product from the file. You can not modify the file to sell.